The plastic ceiling in the kitchen can be easily assembled with your own hands. plastic ceiling in the kitchen is a budget and easy way to update your kitchen. The main requirements for kitchen ceilings are practicality, moisture resistance and attractive appearance. However, not all finishing materials combine the listed characteristics and are suitable for such premises. An easy way to transform a room is to install a plastic ceiling in the kitchen, which has high decorative and operational properties.
Ceiling panels for kitchen
Ceiling panels for the kitchen are presented in two types:
- expanded polystyrene plates of standard sizes 50 * 50 cm. Expanded polystyrene is made from polystyrene polymer masses at elevated temperatures and pressures. To enhance the fire resistance of the material, carbon dioxide is added to it. The result is a plastic mass, from which various elements are created in industrial conditions using special molds.
During production, relief patterns are applied to the surface of the tiles, which increases the decorative properties of the panels. For kitchens, it is better to choose laminated segments that are not afraid of wet cleaning;
- polyvinyl chloride is a product in the form of small colorless or colored granules, obtained as a result of organic synthesis. PVC panels are made by passing such granules through molds. Segments in texture are glossy or matte, of different colors and sizes, seamed or seamless.
The panel structure consists of two layers, between which there are stiffeners. PVC panels for the ceiling in the kitchen will be the best option, as they are inexpensive, easy to install, unpretentious to maintain.
Pros and cons of finishing
Ceilings in the kitchen made of plastic panels are in demand due to the following advantages:
- are not afraid of sudden temperature changes, do not lose their declared initial properties;
- easy to install, even a beginner who is ignorant in the field of professional installation can cope with the installation of a decorative ceiling;
- plastic plates can be washed, wiped with a damp sponge;
- do not emit harmful substances when temperatures rise, as well as under the influence of steam;
- comply with sanitary and environmental standards, harmless to health;
- do not require preliminary preparation and careful leveling of the base ceiling;
- mask floor defects, hide wires passing under the ceiling, engineering communications;
- moisture resistant. Plates are used for finishing rooms with high humidity.
It will be fair to mention the disadvantages inherent in plastic panels. These include:
- are afraid of mechanical damage. Sharp objects on the segments leave deep scratches;
- less attractive than other ceiling structures (for example, stretch ceilings, plasterboard or slatted ceilings);
- like any suspended ceiling, they take the height from the room.
Ceilings in a kitchen made of plastic panels are not only a practical way of finishing, but also an option that is distinguished by a variety of design solutions. The surface can be made mirrored or transparent, monochromatic or multi-colored, imitating natural materials.
The shape of the product is distinguished:
- tiled - from 0.3 to 0.98 m. The surface is smooth and uniform;
- laths (lamellas) 0.13-0.3 m wide and 0.9-3 m long. For the installation of siding ceilings, this type of panel is chosen;
- leafy ones have the largest dimensions (width - from 0.5 to 0.122 m and length - from 0.98 to 2.44 m). It is not easy to mount such slats on your own due to the fragility of the elements.
The panels are laid end-to-end to each other during installation. As a result, the following types of surfaces are formed:
- seamless with missing or barely noticeable joints;
- rustic - grooves obtained after installation between adjacent lamellas play the role of a decorative element;
- embossed, imitating lining made of wood. They differ in greater strength and wear resistance, but at a price they will cost more.
According to the texture of the panel there are:
- matte - in white, the surface of the segments during manufacturing is not covered with decorative materials;
- glossy (shiny). To add shine, special paints and varnishes are applied to them. Such a ceiling will look more elegant and refined.
The color range of the segments is not limited, but the choice of panels should be made in accordance with the interior. Today, standard whites and matte shades have lost their former popularity, and rich, bright colors are used in ceilings.
PVC panels also differ in decoration technology:
- thermal film. In this case, the image is transferred to the surface of the tiles using thermal film;
- drawing a pattern by direct printing on special equipment. The result is a marbled, wooden or patterned surface.
How to make kitchen ceilings from panels: preparation
Calculation of materials and components
From materials you will need to purchase:
- guides and ceiling profiles, fasteners for creating a frame;
- decorative plastic panels;
- skirting boards that mask gaps between walls and ceiling.
To calculate the required number of panels, calculate the area of the kitchen ceiling and divide the resulting value by the area of one segment (the manufacturer indicates the dimensions of the products on the packaging). Add 10% to the calculated figure in case of waste, round up.
To fix the panels to the base ceiling, a frame made of metal profiles is mounted. A rigid guide UD profile is installed to the walls around the perimeter of the room, and ceiling profiles CD are fixed to the ceiling. To calculate the number of profiles, draw a sketch of the future ceiling on a reduced scale on a sheet of paper. Draw lines parallel to each other. The first ceiling profile will be fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, the next - in 60 cm increments. Now, make the final calculation of the elements, taking into account that the standard profile length is 3 m.
Fasteners are calculated as follows: for 50 cm of the profile - 1 dowel with a self-tapping screw and 1 self-tapping screw - for 50 cm of the lamella length.
To determine the total length of the skirting boards, divide the perimeter of the room by the length of one plank (3 m), round the figure up.
Online calculator for calculating plastic ceiling
Tools you need to work:
- scissors for metal;
- miter box for fitting skirting boards in corners;
- level, tape measure, marker or pencil for marking.
Plastic ceiling in the kitchen - DIY installation step by step instructions
Installing the frame
When the materials and tools are prepared, proceed to the installation of the PVC panel ceiling in the kitchen. First, the frame base is assembled. The work takes place in several stages:
- a horizontal line is drawn around the perimeter of the room for attaching the guide metal profile. Next, the paper sketch of the structure is transferred to the ceiling surface;
- the guide profile is mounted tightly to the walls. For this, an adhesive sealing tape is placed on the back of the strips, the profiles are attached to the walls with dowels and self-tapping screws with a step of 60 cm;
- U-shaped suspensions are attached to the base ceiling along the lined lines with a pitch of 70 cm, which will hold the ceiling profiles;
- the ends of the ceiling profile are inserted into the guides, and the bar itself is fixed to the suspensions, additionally fixing it on self-tapping screws for metal;
- a nylon thread is pulled under the frame to adjust the height of the structure. If you need to raise or lower the frame, this is done using adjustable hangers.
Plastic ceiling in the kitchen - fixing decorative panels
Before moving on to finishing the ceiling, finish the work with the wiring. The cable is led to the locations of the lighting devices. A few centimeters of wire are left free to connect to the fixtures. The rest of the cable is laid in protective corrugations, fixed to the base ceiling.
If the kitchen is narrow, it is better to arrange plastic panels in width, then you do not have to cut the slats. In this case, each panel should be 0.5 cm shorter than the gap between the opposite walls.
Below the guide profile, a starting bar is installed along the perimeter and the assembly of the ceiling is started.
The first panel is inserted into the starting plate, fixed to the profile with self-tapping screws through the side ledge. The next part is inserted into the groove of the previous one. All segments are mounted in this order.
The last part has to be cut to the width. Then the whole part of it is brought into the groove of the penultimate lamella, and the cut off - into the starting bar.
At the final stage, a decorative ceiling plinth is mounted around the perimeter, which, to give the surface a finished look, will mask the gaps between ceilings and walls.
You can make a panel ceiling in the kitchen without installing a frame. This option can be implemented only in the case of a flat base ceiling, the absence of utilities under it, and if it is not planned to mount spot lighting in the structure. Then the lamellas will be attached to the ceiling with liquid nails and additionally fixed on the ledges with self-tapping screws.
Video instruction: plastic ceiling in the kitchen
If you want to get maximum expressiveness from the ceiling surface in the kitchen and at the same time save good money, it is a great idea to make a ceiling in the kitchen from plastic panels. Some believe that such a finish cannot be compared with other, even more costly, solutions. However, pvc panels have their advantages, and simplified installation is only a quantitatively small visible part of them. Let's try to understand its features, and also study in detail how it all ultimately looks like - using 5o photos with options for the best designs in modern interiors and 1 video.
- Requirements for the ceiling in the kitchen;
- Material characteristics;
- Advantages and disadvantages of PVC panels;
- Features of installation, required materials and tools;
- Design features. Examples in interiors;
Ceiling requirements for the kitchen
The kitchen is a specific type of room. All the more complicated and plural are the claims regarding the organization of the interior. Including the decoration of the ceiling as one of its central elements.
- resistance to constant temperature drops;
- decent moisture resistance;
- easy cleaning from greasy stains and soot;
- 100% environmental safety;
- organic integration into the interior.
The first 4 requirements are directly related to the specifics of using the kitchen as a room in which food is prepared every day. As a result, steam, soot constantly rises to the ceiling and settles on it safely. It's good if after this its performance does not change. What if the other way around?
As for integration into the interior, the plastic panels on the ceiling allow it to fit perfectly into any stylistic format, while not drawing all the attention to itself, but performing exactly the same function in the interior as, say, your kitchen set, from which , we suspect, you, it happens, do not leave for hours.
Plastic panels did not appear yesterday or even the day before yesterday: for a long time they have been widely used by specialists for finishing both wall and ceiling surfaces. Manufactured from:
- expanded polystyrene;
- polyvinyl chloride.
The fundamental technological difference between these two sources is not as important for the end user as, say, for a chemist who deeply studies this area. However, it is: expanded polystyrene obtained from a polymer mass by adding carbon dioxide, resulting in plasticity, low density, and low weight of the fragments. What up polyvinyl chloride , then it is made from organic matter by pressing and is equipped with stiffening ribs for stability and reliability.
Which panels are better to prefer?
Experts unanimously argue that the first option is more advantageous for the kitchen by counteracting biological effects. Simply put, it is not afraid of mold or mildew, and it reliably protects against extraneous noise. However, in practice, both options are widely used, so if you want to make such a ceiling in the kitchen, you can safely use both expanded polystyrene and polyvinyl chloride.
Due to the comprehensive offer on the market, you can choose the material of the color you need, as well as experiment a lot with the format.
Advantages and disadvantages of PVC panels
Only the lazy are not talking about the advantages of using plastic panels. We are definitely not one of them, and we will allow ourselves to once again point out the obvious advantages:
- preservation of their operational characteristics with a sharp change in temperature;
- installation available for the layman;
- the simplest care;
- absence of any emissions under the influence of steam and high temperature;
- compliance with all environmental and sanitary standards;
- the ability to choose any color scheme and texture necessary for harmonious integration into the interior;
- undemanding to the quality of the ceiling base;
- well hide all pipes, wires and communications;
- very attractive price.
Another thing is also true: only unprincipled sellers and dishonest manufacturers tend to hush up the shortcomings of this or that material. We also do not belong to these two categories and boldly list for you those disadvantages that are always mentioned in relation to plastic panels:
- susceptibility to mechanical stress;
- inferior in visual appeal to the rest of the finishing materials;
- reduce the height of the ceiling, which is important if it is not particularly solid anyway.
As you can see, there are far fewer minuses quantitatively than pluses. This allows us to recommend making a panel ceiling in the kitchen to all those who prefer economical and practical repairs.
Features of installation, necessary materials and tools
Before proceeding with the direct sheathing of the ceiling surface, it is necessary to make all the necessary measurements, buy material and start designing the so-called lathing.
What do you need?
- plastic panels 25x60 centimeters;
- U-shaped ceiling mount;
- self-tapping screws for wood or metal (depending on the nature of the frame);
- wall and ceiling profiles.
- drill or screwdriver;
- scissors for metal or a hacksaw for wood;
- painting thread.
For ease of perception, we have laid out the whole process mounting the ceiling from the panels into stages and received in such a simple way a visual and accessible technological algorithm:
- prepare the ceiling base, ridding it of crumbling plaster, treating it with an antiseptic, also prepare the room by removing all unnecessary and covering the furniture with foil;
- determine the lowest point of the frame and draw a solid line along the entire perimeter of the room - at least 3 cm, optimally - 5-10 centimeters;
- fix the wall profile according to the marked mark;
- fix the fastening strips, and insert the skirting boards cut to the required length into their grooves;
- mount the main profiles with a pitch of at least 50 cm, fixing them to the ceiling with a U-shaped mount;
- using screws, fix the first panel with a plinth and a fixing strip, fix all subsequent ones in the same way - in the groove of the previous panel, press them tightly against each other and align;
- cut out the necessary holes with a knife, if required by the specifics of your interior;
- the final panel is trimmed to the desired size and inserted into the recess between the plank and the profile, and then into the empty groove of the previous panel;
- fix the last skirting board - and the job is done!
The entire installation process is in the video below.
We also advise you to familiarize yourself with the instructions contained in the article: "Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling - instruction article".
Design features. Examples in interiors
Thanks to the large number of colors, you can arrange the ceiling in the kitchen made of PVC panels the way you personally want. However, if you do not have specific ideas on this matter and you certainly want to know how others have successfully solved the problem of choice, especially for you we have selected the most interesting options for using ceiling plastic panels in the kitchen format, clearly reflecting their expressiveness and organic nature.
The most suitable option for a kitchen is a neutral color scheme with a slight coloration like blue, yellow or pink.
- free space visually increases;
- calms and relaxes;
- has tonal versatility.
Examples of how plastic panels on the ceiling of the aforementioned shades perfectly interact with the rest of the interior elements.
Unsuccessful decision - too bright, aggressive shades. Avoid red, orange, acid yellow - they will inevitably irritate you and make your kitchen uncomfortable. Of course, there are sometimes exceptions. But you know perfectly well what they are proof of, right?
Plastic panels with imitation of lining made of wood are always advantageous in the interior. They bring an element of naturalness into the room, make the interior homey, warm and incredibly cozy.
If you want to experiment with combinations, then feel free to try: the ceiling in the kitchen made of multi-colored panels is an interesting and not boring option, but compile only those shades, the interaction of which is organic. For example, white and beige, pink.
A few more examples of a plastic kitchen ceiling with an interesting design.
Thanks to their excellent performance, low price and tonal variety, plastic panels are firmly held among the most popular ceiling finishing materials. Therefore, the likelihood of meeting a ceiling in the kitchen made of plastic panels is very high. And if you are lucky enough to see this option visually somewhere on a visit, then take a closer look at how it unfolds in the interior. Who knows, maybe it will work great in your kitchen too?
Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly installed and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Their assortment is increasing every year. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and plant elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling made of plastic panels is usually made monochromatic. And most often - white or very close to it - with a light shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.
A small part of the assortment of plastic panels
According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough top surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with shiny accents. But since the ceiling made of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - small, as a rule, sizes make you choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - with a matte ceiling, it is necessary to take more lamps or increase their power.
Harmful or not
You can often hear that plastic has no place in the house. Perhaps, but we have plastic almost everywhere. They even pack goods in it; we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom, also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material has no pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a cloth soaked in soapy water or disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Proof can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.
There are plastic panels mirrored or with mirrored parts - stripes
The second point that stops many: the flammability of plastics. They really burn. They begin to maintain the flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: Particleboard and fiberboard, OSB (OSB) start to burn at + 250 ° C. If we compare these materials by the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit it by 40-50% less.
Another reason: the ceiling made of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house and you have a ventilated attic upstairs, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must for both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, install a pair of ventilation grilles in the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.
Types of plastic ceiling panels
All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: on the ceiling, the mechanical strength is unimportant, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is not in demand. In addition, they are heavier, therefore the load on the frame (if any) will be slightly increased, and this must be taken into account when installing it.
Now about the sizes of panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material, the appearance of which resembles a lining: the same stripes, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called rack-and-pinion because the surface is very similar in appearance.
Rack plastic ceilings
An almost flat surface, without gaps, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost invisible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, like on a regular lining, with which the cladding is assembled.
Ceiling made of seamless plastic panels
There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is not used much: it is necessary if columns or other nonlinear surfaces are being trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from slats.
There are PVC sheet ceiling panels
The pluses of ceilings made of plastic panels include ease of maintenance: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.
How to make a ceiling from plastic panels
When buying PVC slats, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with which the ends and joints are made out. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach the plastic directly to the main one.
Types of profiles for installing plastic panels
Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels
On the one hand, the suspended ceiling allows you to secretly lay communications, without being engaged in wall chasing. On the other hand, it "eats" a certain height. At least 3 cm will be spent on it. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put enough of them and make the mirror illumination separately, then the illumination should be enough.
Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels
Assembling the frame
When installing a false ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Profiles are most often used for working with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. The frame is also assembled from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or larger section.
Nailed planks or profiles first along the perimeter, putting them all in a level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden blocks, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane with those installed earlier (it is easier to do if you pull the threads between the already installed ones and align them along them).
A ready-made frame for a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels
If you decide to make a minimum indentation, just to lay the corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the strips are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled using lining - pieces of plywood, wood wedges, etc. In this case, the wireframe looks something like this.
In order not to lower the ceiling, the gap can be minimized
Installation of starting strips
After the frame is assembled, you can start installing the plastic panels. It begins with the installation of a start profile. In the case of the ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.
Attach one of these profiles first
It is fastened close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are sawn at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to the appearance of gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover with putty, but it is better to cut it off clearly: exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - space.
The cut strip can be glued or screwed on with self-tapping screws. It is better to glue the ceiling molding (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: by gluing you press the bar tightly, screwing it onto the "bugs" you cannot achieve this effect, since it twists it forward a little.
On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along its entire length and comes off. There should be some glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8, depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then put it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, a flat bar and check the level of the glued starter profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.
Installation of a starter profile for plastic panels
Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (with the letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the strips, you can move. After 8-12 hours, the glue will harden and installation can be continued.
If during gluing "liquid nails" squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry off with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and no residue will remain. If you try to remove it with a liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.
Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling
After the glue has dried, you can start installing the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to the other, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut the panels to this length. You do not need to do them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is perfect, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, do several pieces, adjusting the length along the way. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or a grinder.
The first panel fits into the previously installed molding from three sides. It is placed with a thorn forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top (mounting shelf) will bend, making installation difficult. To reduce the deflection, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. This will make it easier to insert the strip, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should fit into the baseboard or starter profile exactly along its entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you are installing in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).
Installation of the first strip of plastic panels on the ceiling
The setting of subsequent lanes is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it goes into the skirting board by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tapping along the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to get a tight fit. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means that the strip has become normal.
If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while fixing it to the screws (staples). If you work alone, you can remove the sag by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So you collect all the panels.
During the installation process, do not forget to cut holes for the installation of lamps. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try it with a jigsaw, but if you are good at the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turns out, you can make a hole with a conventional drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch the video. There are a couple more practical tips.
Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done right away, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? We'll have to break it. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.
Installing the last panel
Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be trimmed. Measure the actual distance on one side of the ceiling and on the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or complicated in this. But then there are two options:
- Simply insert the cut strip into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic skirting board. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then from the measured distance you need to subtract about 5-7 mm and so cut off the strip. Otherwise, you will not insert it. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it fits into place. After several attempts, it still turns out ... But besides the difficulties with the installation, there is another drawback: after a while, since the strip is slightly shorter, it departs (sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
- The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance previously measured on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the stop bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on "liquid nails". Only the glue is applied not to the strip, but to all the guides. And the one that is along the wall, and on the perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied, pressed down, set aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed. The disadvantage of this method is that the strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.
The installation of the plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost complete. It remains to install the last plastic skirting board. The mounting strip is first cut on it: leave only the baseboard. After it, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, just cut it off. After trying again "dry" and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only now both shelves: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.
Installation of the last plank
Sealing gaps with acrylic
Actually, the installation is over. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly, there is no need for correction: there is no sagging, which is formed due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, take an acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the assembly gun, and fill in all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, as well as the junction of the plastic skirting board with the ceiling. Often there are so many slots that you have to go through the entire perimeter.
Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic smoothes well until it grasps, and this is a matter of seconds. Because - they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is fine, smear on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it is more convenient to use your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. After smearing a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Cut off the excess putty evenly with a sharp corner of a spatula, then rub everything with a damp sponge, until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.
Fresh acrylic wipes well
After the acrylic dries, it can be pulled into the seam. We have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that appear, rub, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the finishing one. After drying this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp, clean sponge and then gently rub them with a soft cloth until they shine. Now the ceiling made of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered complete.
How to mount to the ceiling
If the ceiling is already flat and does not need level correction, the plastic panels can be attached directly to it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then the strips cut to size are inserted into it, fixing at least 50 cm.
You choose fasteners depending on the material from which the floor is made. You can hit a tree with nails or staples from a stapler. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tortured to drill a hole for a dowel for each fastening. Then it is better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then collect everything as described above.
Wireframe with minimum padding
Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its disadvantage is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and in which case it will have to be completely dismantled.
Ceiling luminaires made of plastic panels
It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install ordinary lamps for 220 V or with a step-down transformer for 12 V. In the first option, they put ordinary incandescent lamps or housekeepers, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting a bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.
Features of installation and selection of lamps for 220 V
If you install lamps for 220 V, and put in them even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp heats up, its body also gets very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible thermal insulation material on the body.
One of the options for a 220 V ceiling lamp
The second point concerns electrical safety when working in lighting at 220 V. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: at least IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. Second point: for the most part they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. You won't be able to simply hang it on plastic: you will need mortgages. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.
Halogen and LED
Since lamps of this type require only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the panel after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At higher voltage, the voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.
Four halogen bulbs on the plastic ceiling are powered by one transformer
If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom to increase safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).
Sometimes a transformer is placed on each lamp. This is normal, just more expensive, but justified with a large distance between the lamps.
Hello readers of my blog! Today we will talk about how to make a plastic ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands. It would seem that the matter is not tricky, but when faced with this problem, you have to think about how to do it right, what preparation to do, what materials to pick up. Thus, I decided that this article would be useful to someone, and I devote my efforts to this subject. In it, I will answer a number of questions that will arise immediately before making a plastic ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands, and some even after that. This topic is wide enough, because before work, you need thorough preparation, but how to do it? And this is a separate topic. You can find out about all this in great detail in the article below. How to make a false ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands
Is it difficult to assemble a false ceiling with your own hands from plastic panels? Today we will get acquainted with the technology of its installation and the auxiliary materials used for this.
At room temperature, PVC is absolutely stable and does not release any substances potentially hazardous to health into the air.
It can turn out to be dangerous only in case of fire: heating to 120 ° C and above starts the process of thermal decomposition of the polymer with the release of caustic hydrogen chloride HCL.
No, it does not burn and does not support combustion.
The price per square meter of vinyl wall panels varies from 160 to 250 rubles. The exact value depends on the thickness of the panels, the pattern, the texture of the surface and the place of production: logistics can make a significant contribution to the formation of retail value.
However: costs for the frame, fasteners, baseboards, etc. increase the total costs by about 80-100 rubles / m2. The total cost of the square will thus be 240-400 rubles.
Comparison with competitors
GKL gives more opportunities to create multi-level and / or curved structures. The advantage of a stretch glossy film is that due to the partial reflection of the room's interior items, the ceiling appears higher. The panels are disadvantageously different from both solutions in that after the installation is completed, the seams between them remain visible.
Neither high humidity nor flooding will affect the appearance of the ceiling. In the worst case, it will have to be wiped off from the drips left after the flood. However, unlike stretch film, the panels will not retain water and will not protect finishes and appliances.
In small ones. In a living room or bedroom, plastic looks ... let's say, much worse than stretch film or drywall. But in the bathroom, toilet, hallway, kitchen or corridor connecting the rooms, it will be very useful.
Nuance: instead of a plastic skirting board, you can use a starting L-shaped or F-shaped profile, as well as a foam baguette, to finish the abutment of the ceiling to the walls.
In dry rooms it is possible, but undesirable.
Wood initially rarely has flawless geometry and warps with changes in atmospheric humidity. In wet ones - you can't. The wooden sheathing will be affected by fungus and rot.
A do-it-yourself plastic suspended ceiling can be installed if you use the following tools and consumables when working with it:
When installing a plastic ceiling, you need to take out all the furniture from the room so that it does not interfere with the work.
It should be remembered that the final result of the entire repair depends on the quality of the material, therefore, before buying plastic, you need to inquire about the company that produces and sells it.
Mark the position of the PNP on the walls according to the level (preferably water or laser, with a beating with a paint cord).
The minimum distance between the bottom point of the overlap and the marking line is the width of the PNP (27 mm). The distance can be increased if it is necessary to route lighting above the suspended ceiling, lay air ducts, etc.;
Attention: the profile can only be cut with scissors. When cutting with a grinder, its edges overheat and lose their anti-corrosion coating, becoming vulnerable to rust.
And in this case, the order of actions is important. When using a plastic skirting board or starting L-profile, it will be as follows:
Useful: it is convenient to cut honeycomb panels with a grinder. Cut-off wheel - for stone or steel. In any case, the cut will be smooth, without chips, cracks and burrs.
As you can see, suspended ceilings made of plastic panels are practical, inexpensive and easy to manufacture. The video attached to the article will help you learn more about their installation. Good luck!
How to make a false ceiling in the kitchen
The issue of aesthetic housing design is especially relevant for most owners of their own real estate. Indeed, in addition to improving the appearance, these procedures can significantly improve the functionality of the room, make it more comfortable and cozy.
Ceiling suspension systems are currently especially popular, which allow you to simultaneously solve several important problems, which we will talk about in the course of the article.
Features of suspended structures
In view of the above circumstances, for many home craftsmen, the question of how to make a suspended ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands according to all the rules is especially relevant.
There is no unequivocal answer, since although the essence of the ceilings is one, the technology of their device may differ significantly.
Let's talk about the most popular, so to speak, folk installation methods and materials.
Stage one: preparation
The method of self-manufacturing of a suspended ceiling involves the implementation of a whole series of sequential actions, and the preparation stage is the primary one.
Moreover, it implies not only the procurement of all the necessary components and equipment, but also aimed at preparing the base base.
Naturally, this is the basis that will be useful everywhere, but other optional devices will be required, which will be mentioned along the way.
If we talk about the preparation of base surfaces, then before making suspended ceilings for the kitchen, it is necessary to implement a number of technical measures.
Advice! When working with household chemicals, be sure to use respiratory protection and gloves. In some cases, glasses do not fit either.
Stage two: making the supporting frame
Suspended ceilings in the kitchen are structural systems consisting of a supporting frame and a finishing material attached to it (MDF, plastic, gypsum plasterboard, etc.), therefore, the first step in the technological process is the construction of a base for installing materials - a supporting frame.
This manipulation is performed using the hydro level. The main goal is to determine the boundaries of the plane of the future structure.
Installing guide elements
UD profiles or corners are more often used as guiding elements for the construction of the frame. In the case of installing a stretch ceiling, a special molding is attached along the lines.
The method of attaching them to is quite simple - they are placed according to the applied markings, and are attached to the walls with the help of dowel screws. Naturally, in this case, they are drilled along with the wall. Guide profiles are attached around the entire perimeter.
Installation of cross members
In order for the suspended ceiling for the kitchen to have sufficient rigidity, it is very important to correctly mount the transverse profiles, which are used as CD elements and various traverses.
Some designs, such as plasterboard or cassette ceilings, require cross-sections. The process of fastening these elements is quite simple and is carried out using special connecting elements such as "crabs".
How is the cladding of false ceilings attached?
After making the frame, proceed to the direct installation of finishing materials.
However, in some cases, before making a suspended ceiling to the kitchen, a number of intermediate operations are performed.
Namely, they lay engineering communications, install thermal insulation systems, and mount electric lighting systems.
The further method of work may differ slightly depending on the type of materials used, therefore it is more advisable to consider its implementation separately for the most common of the options.
How to make false ceilings in the kitchen using PVC panels
Instructions for installing a false ceiling with your own hands also implies the final installation of the ceiling frieze, which performs not only an aesthetic function, but also hides the places where the finishing materials adjoin the wall modules.
To facilitate the process of assembling suspended ceilings, various photo and video materials with accompanying explanations and recommendations are presented on the Internet resources.
But in general, you can only understand the intricacies of the work if you do it yourself, so throw all doubts aside and get down to business. Moreover, the price of work on suspended ceilings in the kitchen is quite high and can vary from $ 5 to $ 20 per square meter.
How to repair the ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands
In this article, we will look at the process of removing old coatings, which is almost always a must when repairing and installing any kind of ceiling.
And then we will dwell in detail on the topic of basic, serious repairs and figure out how to do it with our own hands - to properly align the ceiling, repair cracks and rusty, high-quality primer, plaster and putty, and then paint / whitewash the kitchen.
Removing the old finish
Any do-it-yourself ceiling repair begins with the total removal of all old coatings. What do we need at this stage?
The old coating is completely removed - paint, whitewash, peeling plaster.
Whitewash can be removed in two ways - wet (you can simply wash off the chalk) and dry.
As a rule, these two methods are used as follows: first moisten a small area (not the entire area at once, since the wetted surface dries quickly) with water, wait 10-15 minutes until the water is absorbed into the old coating, and then begin to actively remove it with a spatula. in difficult places it is better to use a puncher.
In the joints of the slabs (rustic), you also need to remove all unnecessary.
If mold spots are found under the plaster, the ceiling should be treated with a special antifungal primer or any chlorine-containing compound (for example, Whiteness, if the mold is small and not old).
Of course, all work must also be carried out in a respirator.
We prime, plaster, putty, level, seal cracks and rusty
To make things go faster, use a spray gun, not a roller.
It is better to choose a deep penetration primer and, of course, with an antiseptic. After all, we make repairs in a special room - in the kitchen.
It is better not to do such a complex and responsible repair of the kitchen ceiling with your own hands, but entrust it to the master.
6 hours after filling, the surface can be wiped and sanded, it can be done manually, and better and faster - with a grinder.
Then it should be primed again - with diluted paint or a penetrating primer. Let it dry and start painting.
Painting the ceiling
You can paint the ceiling only when the primed surface is dry. It is desirable to start painting from the window.
In addition, if you paint the surface with a short-nap roller, you get a smooth finish. A rough texture can be created using a long-nap roller. One strip of paint should go slightly over the other.
How to choose a coloring composition for a kitchen ceiling
Do-it-yourself ceiling repair by staining or whitewashing is the most common (largely due to its budget) method.
Before you paint the ceiling, you need to choose the right dye. The traditional way of painting involves the use of lime or chalk mortar.
The whitewash layer needs to be periodically renewed, but if you paint without washing off the previous layer, then very soon unaesthetic "sags" will form on the surface. In addition, in this case, you can forget about design delights.
It is better to paint the kitchen ceiling with water-based paint. Compared to lime, it forms a thinner and more attractive layer.
Compositions of this type almost do not smell during the work, they are economical, affordable and varied in shades.
To create a durable and reliable coating, you can paint with a water emulsion in several layers - this will not interfere with the passage of air, which means that the room will not be stuffy. Among the most noticeable disadvantages of this type of paint is the impossibility of washing. The ceilings can be wiped with a dry cloth or slightly damp but without rubbing.
Experts call acrylic paint the best material for painting a kitchen ceiling. The resulting surface can be washed not only with water, but also with soap solutions - the only exceptions are abrasive substances.
The surface obtained with the help of such a dye is distinguished by aesthetics and decorativeness.
It is better to paint the surface in the kitchen with matte rather than glossy dye. Gloss is able to emphasize unevenness of the base, and the matte layer, on the contrary, will hide them.
Repair of the ceiling in the kitchen
Repairing the ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels is a budget option for creating a practical and quite attractive interior in a room where everyone spends a considerable part of their life.
Plastic kitchen ceilings - beautiful and inexpensive
The kitchen is the room in which materials with specific properties must be used to decorate the ceiling surface.
In particular, they must be resistant to fluctuations (and, note, constant) humidity and temperature, not to change their appearance under the influence of these negative factors, be easy to care for and safe for health. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) panels meet the specified requirements. They make it possible to obtain an aesthetic ceiling covering with minimal installation and materials costs.
Plastic kitchen ceilings
Plastic panels differ from each other in shape, geometric dimensions and color shades. This allows you to create truly individual kitchen interiors.
The most popular are products made in the format of 10 mm strips in width. This form of panels is called clapboard. It is very convenient to work with such strips.
They are equipped with either the so-called polka lock or European latches (the latter are considered more reliable in operation). Soot, grease deposits and other contaminants deposited on the ceiling from the plastic panels can be easily removed with soapy water. PVC-coating is allowed to be cleaned with the help of special agents produced by the modern chemical industry.
But there is one caveat.
A kitchen ceiling made of mirrored or glossy PVC products cannot be washed with abrasive compounds, as there is a high risk of damage to the coating. The panels we are interested in are not afraid of water. If you get flooded by neighbors from above, the plastic cover won't deteriorate.
An important advantage of PVC finishing is the ability to hide various household communications under the ceiling, from water pipes to electrical wiring.
And home craftsmen, who are accustomed to repairing their home on their own, appreciate the fact that to install PVC panels it is not necessary to perform laborious operations to level the ceiling. PVC products are mounted on a pre-built frame and mask even significant flaws in the ceiling surface.
The choice of PVC panels - which ones should not be taken?
High-quality finishing of the kitchen ceiling is possible only if you correctly select plastic products for this operation.
It is important to know that not all PVC panels on the construction market are allowed to be used in kitchens and in living quarters in general. Some careless manufacturers strive to reduce the cost of their products as much as possible. For these purposes, they use low-quality raw materials for the manufacture of plastic lining.
Variety of PVC panels
The results of this pursuit of profit are deplorable. Cheap products are short-lived - their appearance deteriorates literally after a couple of years of operation.
In addition, such poor quality coatings can harm your health. Getting really good PVC products is not difficult at all. Stick to two main rules:
Never buy panels that have a strong, unpleasant odor. Sellers will assure you that over time it will wear off and everything will be fine.
But this is not the case. Believe me, such products are initially of poor quality and potentially unsafe. Purchase lining with certificates of quality and compliance with the Sannorms adopted in our country. In this case, the risk of buying harmful materials is reduced to zero.
Also, when choosing a plastic, other important points should be considered. Do not take canvases that have inclusions and an unevenly colored surface: color transitions within one panel must be very smooth - not striking. It is undesirable to install too soft and thin PVC products in the kitchen.
Be sure to pay attention to the edges of the lining. They should not have roughness (even very small ones). Their presence significantly complicates the process of installing the ceiling and does not allow the creation of integral structures.
If you want to check the quality of the plastic, simply squeeze the panel offered to you with two fingers of your hand (press hard enough). The durable material should not break or crack.
Only slight deformation may appear on its surface. We will not give special recommendations regarding the choice of the appearance of plastic panels. It seems that you yourself can decide what kind of ceiling made of PVC panels you want to see in your kitchen.
There will be no real problems here. The shops have canvases for every taste. If desired, it is easy to purchase any lining - leather, natural wood, ceramics, steel, bamboo.
Fans of original interiors can be advised to pay special attention to the increasingly popular translucent and mirror coatings.
With their help, it will be very easy to radically transform your kitchen. When choosing a plastic lining, do not forget about the main thing - your ceiling should be in harmony with the general style of the kitchen. Another little tip.
Many experts say that dark ceiling surfaces in kitchens do not look the best. It is much wiser to use light and light panels - beige, dark blue, pastel, to decorate this room. Such shades expand (visually) the room and create a positive atmosphere in it.
Preparing for installation - counting on what to buy
To decorate the ceiling with plastic, you need to purchase PVC panels in the right amount. Standard products have a length of 2.7–3 m, a width of 0.25–0.5 m and a thickness of 5 to 10 mm (remember that it is advisable to choose wider and thicker products). It is not difficult to determine the required amount of material.
Measure the area of the ceiling surface and divide it by the area of one PVC sheet (the last value is on the packaging of the panels). And then add another 15 percent of the material to the resulting number. The surplus will be used for trimming and scrap at work.
PVC panels for ceilings
We will install the panels on the frame. For its manufacture, rigid metal (marking - UD) will be required, which are mounted around the perimeter of the room, and light (CD) profiles, which serve as transverse load-bearing elements. Their number is calculated as follows.
Draw on a scale a diagram of the ceiling surface (use a checkered notebook sheet), apply all the necessary profiles to the drawing (take the distance between the transverse strips about 0.6 m). Count how many profiles you need in total. Immediately you should calculate the number of self-tapping screws with which PVC products will be fixed, as well as dowels (they are needed to install rigid frame elements).
For every 0.5 m of the length of the plastic product, take 1 self-tapping screw, and for the same length of the profile - 1 dowel.
If you want to make a skeleton for plastic from wood, instead of universal self-tapping screws, it is better to use 6 mm staples.
Then decide on the required number of skirting boards (they are produced in lengths of 3 meters), purchase materials for the construction of a metal frame (mounting angles and parts), prepare the simplest working tool (electric drill, hacksaw for metal, screwdriver, square, level, pliers, knife, hammer, stapler and staples). You are all set to get started.
We build the frame and install the panels - the right approach is important
Let's deal directly with how to make a plastic ceiling in the kitchen. First you need to build a skeleton for a PVC ceiling covering. Let's say right away that we recommend making a frame from metal elements.
Wooden lathing in the kitchen will not last long. No matter what special means you process the wood, it will still deteriorate quickly enough due to the high humidity in the room where you prepare food every day. And then you have to do all the installation work again.
Installation of a frame for installing panels
Mark the position of the lower part of the skeleton with the help of a building level (water tubular device). In the middle of the kitchen and in its corners, place marks according to the standard technique, using a chokline or a cord rolled in blue. Mount the lower part of the UD profiles according to the mark made. Maintain the distance between the lower level of the batten and the main ceiling surface at least 25 cm.
If the distance is made less, you will not be able to install profiles without additional undercutting of the ceiling.
Fix the CD profiles to the U-shaped mounts. The distance between the crossbars, as you remember, should be about 60–70 cm. You can put profiles more often.
Then the structure will be much more reliable and durable. Fasten the metal strips with flea beetles - special metal screws. If using wood blocks, use 2.5 cm wood screws.
After installing all the profiles, it is necessary to level them.
This is not difficult to do using a strong thread. Just pull it between the profiles, and you will see whether the installation work has been done well or not. Align the structure if necessary.
There are mere trifles left - to install a plastic sheet. You need to cut the panels so that their length is 5 mm less than the distance between the kitchen walls, and then follow these steps.
First, you fix the fastening strips to the profiles, insert the skirting boards cut to a given length into the existing grooves. Then slide the very first plastic panel into the gap between the fastener and the plinth, attach it to the profiles with screws. And insert all subsequent PVC products into the groove of the previous ones and fix them with a crate with self-tapping screws.
Areas on the ceiling where heating pipes or other communications are laid are easy to get around. Cut out the required cross-section holes in the PVC panels and continue the installation further. The last piece of the web should be cut to the required size from the side of their mounting part before installation.
And then push it into place (between the profile and the strip) and fix it in the groove of the penultimate PVC product. You just have to mount the last skirting board and cover the mounting strips with a plastic baguette. Finishing completed!
Plastic panels on the kitchen ceiling
Finishing with plastic panels allows you to get an aesthetic ceiling covering that will not only be beautiful, but also easy to maintain - while the installation costs are minimal. What are the advantages of plastic panels on the kitchen ceiling? Let's consider their main advantages in a “kitchen” environment.
Advantages of PVC panels in the kitchen
First, this finish is incredibly easy to maintain. To clean it, no special substances are required - dirt and soot deposited on the kitchen ceiling are easily removed. Restrictions on the choice of cleaning products exist only for glossy and mirror surfaces - abrasives cannot be used here.
Secondly, PVC panels will survive even the most severe flooding - and dry on their own without damage, without requiring any intervention from you.
You will have to remove the plastic ceiling only if the amount of water that has got into your apartment is very large. It is due to the moisture resistance of the material that it is most often used for lining the ceiling in the bathroom and on the balcony. Well, in a kitchen, plastic paneling is especially important if you are often flooded from above.
Thirdly, ceiling panels in the kitchen help to hide communications (wires and pipes).
Fourthly, a significant plus of this type of suspended ceilings is that they do not require a perfectly flat ceiling and hide even its significant defects.
It is worth noting such advantages of PVC ceilings as:
Of the disadvantages of PVC ceilings, it can only be noted that the structure belongs to hinged ones, which means that it will slightly reduce the overall height of the ceiling.
Choosing a design
Decorating with plastic panels is also a variety of different design solutions. Such a ceiling can become mirrored or translucent, imitating ceramics, bamboo, metal or marble, "wood-like" or even "leather-like".
Of course, when choosing a texture and color, the overall stylistic solution of the room is of decisive importance, however, it is not recommended to make a dark ceiling made of plastic. Traditionally, pastel colors, shades of blue and beige are used.
By the way, light colors will visually expand the space.
White plastic will be very similar to the noble white wooden paneling and will fit into the interior of any style and color.
Matte panels will look better in the kitchen, and gloss will be more appropriate in the bathroom.
What to look for in the store
When you have decided on the design, you need to move on to the issue of purchasing material. It is important that you purchase quality plastic panels.
PVC ceiling panels are lighter and more fragile than wall panels, and therefore transportation and installation must be done with great care.
We calculate the consumption of materials: panels, skirting boards, profiles and fasteners
The thickness of PVC panels is most often 5-10 mm, width 250-500 mm, and the length varies from 2.7 m (standard) to 3 m. Ceiling skirting boards have a length of three meters.
To calculate plastic panels, first determine the area of the ceiling, and then divide this number by the area of one panel (indicated on the package). Add 15% of the stock for cuts to the resulting figure and round this data up.
It is necessary to install UD (rigid) guide profiles around the kitchen perimeter, and the load-bearing transverse strips of the frame must be light, i.e. CD.
Count the number of profiles for the manufacture of the lathing. To do this, draw a sketch of your ceiling to scale on a sheet of paper.
Now designate the profiles that will be installed across the room parallel to each other. The distance between them should be about 60 cm. Calculate how many profiles are required, taking into account those that will be installed around the entire perimeter of the kitchen.
Also count the required number of dowels (for attaching profiles) and self-tapping screws (for attaching panels) at the rate of 1 dowel per 50 cm of the profile and 1 self-tapping screw per 50 cm of the length of the PVC panel. The lathing can be made of wooden beams, then 6 mm staples are suitable instead of self-tapping screws. But keep in mind that a wooden frame will not last as long as a metal one.
To calculate the required number and length of skirting boards, divide the perimeter of the ceiling by 3 (since the length of the skirting board is 3 meters), and then round this figure up to a multiple of three.
What is required for work - the necessary tools and accessories
We need actually PVC panels of standard dimensions (5-8 mm thickness, 6 meters length, 25 cm width) and the chosen design.
Do not forget that finishing with plastic panels is done in the kitchen, that is, in a place with high humidity. So that you do not have to make repairs here often, additionally treat the wooden crate with a protective solution that increases the resistance of the wood to moisture. If this is not done, then very soon PVC will "lead".
Before hanging plastic panels on the kitchen ceiling, it is necessary to prepare the base. Before fixing the frame, putty and plaster are knocked off the main ceiling (not completely, but only peeling fragments).
Then they begin to create a frame for plastic panels.
Mark the location of the lower part of the frame - for this, a tubular water level is used. If you are using a metal frame, then first UD-profiles are screwed to the wall. There must be at least 25 mm between the bottom mark of the frame and the ceiling (base).
After installing the UD profiles, the main ones are mounted - made of metal or wood. They are attached directly to the ceiling using U-shaped metal mounts.
Between the fasteners, a distance of less than 70 cm must be maintained. The smaller the installed step, the more reliable and rigid the whole structure will be. Self-tapping screws are used for fastening wooden beams, and metal profiles are attached using "fleas".
To begin with, the PVC sheets are cut so that their length is less than the distance between the walls (in length) by 5 mm.
Work must start from the window. The fixing strips must be fixed to the installed profiles, while the last fixing strip is mounted on the wall opposite to the window and last.
Then, into the grooves of the installed fastening strips, we insert the skirting boards, which were previously cut to the desired length.
The first panel is pushed into the recess between the skirting board and the fixing strip, leveled and fastened with screws with a wide head. Further, each next panel is attached to the groove of the previous panel and is also screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
Heating pipes can pass through the ceiling. To get around them, holes of the required diameter are cut in the plastic panels. And don't forget that PVC trim can warp near pipes.
Before fastening, the last piece of PVC must be cut along the side of the mounting edge to the desired width and inserted into the recess between the strip and the profile, and then into the groove of the penultimate panel.
Now all that remains is to install the last plinth and the repair of the ceiling in the kitchen using plastic panels can be considered complete.
Well, now it's time to finish the article. All the material that I wanted to share is reviewed. I hope it will be useful to you, and you will use it if you need to make a plastic ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands. Improve your own practical skills and gain all the new knowledge, as they say: "It's never too late to learn!" That's all, thanks for your attention, successful and easy repair!
The ceiling in the kitchen made of plastic panels is one of the most common finishing options, because it is distinguished by its low cost, ease of installation, a wide selection of various decoration materials, resistance to wear and tear, and ease of maintenance.
The advantages of a panel ceiling in the kitchen
The following factors are considered the advantages of plastic panels:
- Almost unlimited possibilities of imitation for any other material, for example, marble, metal and others, which allows you to create both original and harmonious interiors.
- Resistance to various external influences: temperature, humidity, etc.
- Ease of maintenance.
- Possibility of self-assembly (if you have initial construction skills).
- Low or medium cost of the material (for most consumers, plastic panels are quite acceptable in economic terms).
- The plastic is easy to cut, which often has to be done in the process.
- The ability to create completely different structures, even multi-level (or suspended).
These advantages are enough to decide on a ceiling made of PVC panels for the kitchen.
How to calculate the number of ceiling tiles for your kitchen
To accurately calculate how much material is required for the cladding, the ceiling is measured over the entire area. The laying method is also taken into account: diagonal, transverse, longitudinal, alternate. It is recommended to draw up a diagram, a plan in advance, and only after that do the calculations.
Another 15% must be added to the final figure obtained in the course of the calculations. This is necessary because, as a rule, the ceiling panels for the kitchen have to be cut, and in this regard, the amount of material may be insufficient. This is especially true when using panels with a pattern or pattern.
How to choose a design for the interior of the room
Plastic panels for the ceiling in the kitchen are good because the material has great decorative possibilities. You can create unique, interesting interior designs from it, focusing on the features of a particular kitchen. It is a flexible and ductile material that allows for the best possible surface finish on the ceiling.
A variant of a colored ceiling made of panels in the kitchen will look very original. This is a bold decision that requires a competent approach. It is not only the overall kitchen design that needs to be considered. The color and shape of the headset are also important.
Glossy or matte
Both types of ceiling are good. The visual difference is obvious: gloss implies gloss, but matte does not. To increase the space, it is better to give preference to gloss, and to create a warm and cozy atmosphere, a matte ceiling is suitable. If you have a glossy headset for the ceiling, you should choose dullness, because the kitchen is a resting place, and the excess shine is tiring and does not set you up for sincere conversations and a pleasant pastime at the table. Gloss is more "capricious" in leaving. With discreet kitchen furniture, you can quite afford a little shine on the ceiling, taking into account the shine of the chandelier.
Imitation for natural material
Imitations are so good that it is difficult to distinguish them from natural material. Only a close look can see the "fake". Plastics imitate fabric surfaces, for example, velvet. But more often - wood, stone, etc. This is a good economical option. Few people can afford to make a ceiling from oak or real velvet. It is also laborious: you will have to seek professional help.
They can be very diverse: from simple geometry to complex, intricate oriental patterns. A good option when not covering the entire ceiling with a pattern, but only part of it, selectively. When there is also a similar wall pattern, it looks doubly interesting.
The plastic ceiling in the 3D kitchen is fantastic. Thanks to the use of this technology, they create real living ceilings that change the atmosphere of the kitchen. You can make the ceiling "open", extending into the sky, or you can place a whole ocean with its inhabitants on it. For lovers of abstraction, geometric shapes are suitable. Such a ceiling is ideally combined with high-tech style.
Installation of a plastic ceiling in the kitchen - step by step instructions
To create a ceiling in the kitchen from plastic panels with your own hands does not require a lot of effort, special knowledge, tools. Below is a step-by-step instruction on how to make a ceiling from plastic panels.
Necessary tools for ceiling installation
Construction tools are prepared in advance:
- simple pencil, felt-tip pen or marker;
- a tool for cutting wood, you can take an electric saw, a hacksaw will also work;
- drill or hammer drill;
- scissors for cutting metal;
- grinding machine;
- putty knife;
To create the lathing, a metal profile or wooden bars are used.
How to prepare the surface for installation
The preparatory phase is very important. The quality of the installation of the ceiling panels depends on how correctly and qualitatively the surface is prepared. The base base on which the battens will be attached must be thoroughly cleaned and leveled.
If during the preparation of the base you have to work with chemicals, be sure to wear a mask, gloves, glasses for safety reasons.
How to install a crate (supporting structure) for fixing PVC panels
The lathing can be made of metal or wood. First of all, you need to make a mark on the lower frame part. When using the first type of battens, the UD profiles are screwed to the wall surface. Their bottom just falls on the mark made.
It is important to maintain a distance of 2.5 cm from the main ceiling to the lower level of the batten so that the profiles can fit comfortably and there is no need to trim the ceiling.
When the UD profiles are in place, the metal or wood profiles are attached to the U-shaped ceiling mounts. The distance between the fasteners should be up to 70 cm. The strength of the structure directly depends on this value: the smaller the step, the stronger the structure.
Profiles must be leveled using a thread that is simply pulled between them. Compliance with the distance between the profiles is necessary so that the lining does not sag.
Another important point to consider is the pipes of the heating system. If they are present, the plastic ceiling from the panels simply cannot turn out to be even. Therefore, you will have to go around them, making a box for them, or come up with something better. The most important thing is that the panels are not placed close to the heating pipes. High heating temperatures can deform the plastic.
After the crate is made, they begin to mount the panels themselves. Their length should be 5 mm shorter than the distance between the walls. The first is attached to screws, which are screwed in so that you can still cover it with a foam baguette from above.
A flat quadrangular ceiling is an ideal option that is quite rare. Basically, there are roughness, protrusions, etc. In this case, they just make cuttings. This is enough to go around the ledge.
The last panel is installed a little differently. This requires the following manipulations:
- Measure the distance from the wall with the penultimate panel (this must be done in several places at once due to irregularities).
- Measure the resulting value on the panel and, using a special knife, shorten to the required size.
- Attach the panel to the screws, like the initial one, and then glue the baguette around the perimeter.
There is also a frameless method. It is used extremely rarely, because it is appropriate where the ceiling surface is flat and smooth. The method does not require a crate. All you need are liquid nails or other adhesive mixtures. An important condition for processing is dry indoor air.
All that remains is to evenly apply the glue mixture with a spatula, touching the entire surface. This can be done by introducing putty into the existing pits.
The frameless method is much simpler and more economical. However, it has its significant drawbacks:
- With this installation, it is impossible to install spotlights.
- It is also impossible to use it in a room with high humidity, as well as with an uneven surface.
The best, most reliable way is to mount it on a frame or crate.
How to care for ceiling panels
One of the main advantages of plastic panels is that they are easy to clean and maintain. Sometimes it is enough just to run with a damp sponge or rag to simply brush off the dust. This is also enough to remove the accumulated soot, fat, which inevitably collect with frequent and active cooking, and when there is no exhaust ventilation system.
For particularly heavy soiling, use a soap solution. In this case, do not use abrasive materials and brushes, as they will only damage the surface.
Maintenance also includes timely repairs if necessary. When attaching to the frame, it is enough just to replace the failed panel without touching the rest. With the frameless method, it's a little more complicated. If the panels were glued, you will have to remove the material in parts.
The ceiling made of PVC panels in the kitchen is an excellent, practical, modern solution. This coating is original and beautiful. Even a plain white plastic ceiling looks completely different. The variety of plastic panels allows you to create a unique kitchen interior. That there are only three-dimensional 3D panels! Housewives will definitely appreciate the ease of care of such surfaces. The ability to imitate natural materials is at its best. And this is a significant saving, because the same stone or wood is much more expensive than plastic, and it is more difficult to work with such materials.
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Before the repair, the question of the choice of optimal materials arises. The biggest headache becomes a specific room in an apartment or house - the kitchen. This room, which daily reflects the "attacks" of high temperature, humidity, odors, sometimes unpleasant, needs practical finishing materials. The ceiling suffers more than other surfaces, therefore it always requires the most reliable protection. No less important is the aesthetic component, ease of installation. All these requirements are met by a single material. The ceiling made of plastic panels in the kitchen is one of the universal solutions that has many advantages.
The advantages of plastic, its disadvantages
There are many reasons for the demand for this material, because not every material can be proud of such a list of advantages. Plastic panels have become kitchen favorites because of their many wonderful qualities. In this list:
- no fear of temperature extremes, "phobia" of flooding;
- successful resistance to high daily humidity;
- incredibly easy care that does not require special detergents;
- ease of material and ease of installation, subject to the owners of the house;
- compliance with sanitary standards, environmental friendliness, fire safety;
- undemanding to preliminary preparation of the ceiling with a frame;
- incredibly rich assortment of textures and colors;
- excellent sound insulation;
- affordable price.
The list of pros is impressive, but plastic panels have a few relative downsides. It:
- panic fear of mechanical stress;
- some reduction in ceiling height.
If you subtract the disadvantages from the merits, then an impressive figure remains. She is the secret (of Punchinelle) of the general popularity of plastic ceilings.
Varieties of material
The range of plastic panels is so large that you should first carefully consider what kind of ceiling the owners want to get as a result.
This criterion deserves special attention.
- Lamination. In this case, the base is covered with a dense plastic film, which gives decorative qualities and additional strength. These models can be attributed to the most reliable of the plastic panels, since they are less susceptible to mechanical stress than others. There is also a small drawback - a relatively poor choice of shades, since they often imitate the texture of wood.
- Offset printing. Here, the drawing is applied with a roller, the surface is varnished, and dried under ultraviolet lamps. Such glossy surfaces are mainly specialized for ceilings. They have a weak point - the possible tarnishing of the gloss, so when cleaning them, you should avoid harsh brushes and abrasives in cleaning agents.
- Thermal transfer printing. In this method, a composition is first applied to the plastic surface that dissolves the top layer. Then it is covered with a film with a pattern. The product is semi-glossy, and due to the film layer, as in lamination, it acquires sufficient resistance to mechanical damage. An additional plus is the rich assortment.
- Photo printing. This is a new type of design, but in this case, the ceiling made of plastic panels in the kitchen will cost more, so the work is done only on an individual order.
Dimensions of facing material
There is a favorite among the panel types, but it is not an absolute hit. For plastic ceilings in the kitchen, they successfully use:
- Lamels. The elements are 100 to 500 mm wide and 2300 to 3000 mm long. The surface can be made seamless or seam - rustic (plastic lining), but the latter option for the kitchen is not ideal, not entirely practical, since soot, dust and grease will accumulate in the space left.
- Square tiles. Their sizes are from 300x300 to 900x900 mm. This ceiling material is often produced with a pattern - ornamental or floral. The combination of the latter with ordinary tiles gives a lot of room for the imagination of the owners.
- Sheet plastic. These products can imitate various surfaces - wood, stone, leather, wallpaper. Sheets are made in both square and rectangular shapes. The side length also varies greatly - from 800 to 2000 mm.
Lamellas are the most popular variety. Particularly attractive is the lining, consisting of several sections, between which there are inserts - colored or metallized.
Guidelines for choosing plastic
The first is the thickness of the items. The standard sizes are 5, 8.9 and 10 mm. Thinner panels are believed to be more suitable for ceiling mounting. However, in the case of a 5 mm thickness, a problem may arise - transillumination of products due to mortise lighting fixtures. Therefore, 8-10 mm is the optimal size: both for walls and for horizontal surfaces.
The second popular criterion is price, which indicates quality, but there are exceptions to any rule - unscrupulous sellers. Therefore, when buying, you need to inspect the material from all sides. You need to check:
- The uniformity of the pattern, the absence of distortions, transillumination of the stiffeners, smoothness, horizontality of the plastic surface.
- The thickness of the walls (especially the outer one), ribs and their correct location, the number, which should be the same on all purchased products.
- No suspicious gaps at the joints of the elements. For a quality test, several panels are tightly connected.
- Strength. It is checked with a sufficiently strong squeeze with the fingers. The absence of the slightest deformation is a sign of quality.
- The amount of chalk in the material. Reliability is confirmed by bending / unbending the corners of the panel. The absence of stripes, integrity despite manipulation is a symptom of a reliable product.
- "Aroma". In this case, they test exhibition samples that have been on display for a long time, so they managed to "air out". If the smell still remains, it is better to flatly refuse to buy.
It is easier to avoid mistakes. The choice of panels from a well-known brand practically ensures the acquisition of a decent material.
Panel mounting options
There are several ways, but it cannot be written that some of them are much easier than the other. In all cases, rather strict requirements are imposed on the installation.
It belongs to the most budgetary options for getting a plastic ceiling. In this case, only glue is used. But this solution has increased requirements for surface characteristics. Only a perfectly prepared, aligned base guarantees the quality of the plastic ceiling, as well as its longevity.
This method is used more often. The reason is the reliability of the structure, the speed of work due to the absence of the need for a long "fuss" with the alignment of problem ceilings, which in most apartments leave much to be desired. The crate is made of slats. A more durable option is metal profiles.
Types of fasteners
For installation, use dowels, self-tapping screws or staples. These are the more common options. But there is another way - with clasps - metal clips. The cladding material is literally fastened to the crate. This fastening, unlike others, makes it possible to dismantle individual elements, which in some cases can be a convenient way out of a difficult situation.
The two technologies require different preparation: both materials and base surface.
Method with crate
For the frame mounting method, you need to buy:
- profiles: guides and ceiling;
- plastic panels; ceiling skirting boards;
In order not to miss the target, the approximate amount of materials must be calculated in advance. By multiplying the width and length of the ceiling, you get its area. This value is divided by the area of the selected product. From 10 to 15% is added to the result, this figure is rounded up. The stock will give a chance to avoid downtime if the master makes a mistake when trimming the panels.
The frame requires two types of profiles - guide (UD), ceiling (CD). Here, a drawing is prepared for the calculation, with the help of which the number of ceiling profiles and the total length of the required material are determined. The first ceiling element is mounted at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, the next ones have a step of 600 mm. Using the scheme, the desired is obtained based on the standard profile length - 3000 mm.
Small fasteners usually do not require these meticulous manipulations with numbers, but their number can be calculated in advance. For every 500 mm of the profile, 1 dowel and a self-tapping screw for metal are required. For half a meter of lamella there is one self-tapping screw. Determining the length of the skirting boards is an elementary task. The perimeter of the ceiling is divided by the length of one product (3000 mm) and then also rounded, but only to a multiple of three.
They stock up on tools and additional materials if the essentials are not enough. The must have list includes:
- corrugation for wiring;
- drill / screwdriver;
- liquid nails for skirting boards;
- nylon thread;
- pencil, marker;
- scissors for metal;
- miter box for skirting boards;
- roulette, level;
- sealing tape.
After completing the preparation, it seems that nothing prevents you from installing the plastic panels. However, there is one condition that guarantees that there will be no gaps in the future. This is the need to acclimatize the material in a new place. The minimum period is one day, the optimal one is several days. It is recommended to start installing panels when the temperature in the kitchen is lower than usual. In this case, when it is normalized, the plastic will expand, and the new ceiling finish will look monolithic. The wish applies to both methods of obtaining a plastic ceiling.
The glue method implies that the hosts have:
- sealant (transparent);
- primer (better concrete contact);
- paint stripping;
- marker or pencil;
- starting putty;
- putty knife.
Here, the main role is given to surface preparation and adhesive composition. The latter should be:
- transparent, quickly and reliably set;
- resistant to humidity and temperature extremes;
- insensitive to alkalis and direct sunlight.
An odorless formulation is the preferred option. The most popular are "liquid nails". Suitable would be Kleiberit 636, Moment Installation or Crystal, Titanium, polyurethane sealant. The optimal liquid nails for PVC panels are 601, 901, 915.
The choice depends only on the thickness of the facing material. For thin panels, a normal level of fixation is required, for thick lamellas, reinforced compounds. There are no other options: using the latest version for lightweight panels, you can stay "at the broken trough", watching the new coating swell.
Installation on a crate
The first obligatory operation is the removal of old peeling fragments of plaster and putty. Further work is carried out in a strict sequence.
- Using the level, mark the lower border of the frame. The minimum distance from it to the ceiling is 25 mm. A horizontal line is drawn around the perimeter for the guides. A soundproof tape is glued to the frame elements, then they are fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws, the fastener pitch is about 600 mm.
- Proceed to the installation of the ceiling cross-sections. Draw lines for them. Metal suspensions are fixed according to the marking. In this case, the pitch is 700-1000 mm. Having led the ends of the ceiling profile into the guides, it is fixed on the suspensions with self-tapping screws. Use a nylon thread stretched under the frame. With its help, the height of all structural elements is adjusted.
- After installing the battens, they are engaged in the "wiring" to the places that are planned for the installation of lighting fixtures. The remaining cable, laid in corrugations, is attached to the ceiling.
Installation of panels
It is recommended to start it from the side wall, but the shape of the kitchen and the peculiarity of the cladding material, which requires a special location relative to the window opening, can make adjustments.
- Cut the material with scissors / hacksaw for metal or with a knife. Start from the side where the groove is located. They do this on the front side, because otherwise it can easily provoke chips. The length of each element must be 5 mm less than the distance between opposite walls. The reason is thermal expansion.
- The starting panel is inserted into the profile, pressed tightly, fixed with self-tapping screws along the entire length. The rest of the panels are inserted into the grooves of the previous parts, then fixed. All elements are mounted in a similar way, except for the last one, which usually guarantees the greatest difficulties.
- The detail that completes the painting is likely to require cropping. And here exceptional measurement accuracy is important. For cutting along the longitudinal line, a knife and a guide rail are used. In this case, the untouched side is brought into the groove of the penultimate panel, and the other is fixed with self-tapping screws.
The last stage is the installation of a ceiling plinth designed to mask the remaining gaps.
First, the base is removed from the old coating - falling off plaster.
- The water emulsion and lime are washed off with water until the base is completely exposed, the paint is removed with a spatula, then the ceiling is cleaned with emery. Defects (cracks, chips, curvature up to 5 mm) are corrected with a putty. If it is necessary to reapply it, the first layer is dried, then primed. The finished wall is cleaned with emery and primed again.
- With the help of a chopping cord and diagonals, the center of the ceiling is found. By joining the corners at the found point, the installation of the slabs begins. The adhesive is applied along the perimeter plus crosswise, if the moisture level is high (or the material is thick), or in a zigzag pattern. Before work, be sure to read the instructions for the glue, since some of the materials first require short-term contact of the lamella with the ceiling, and then removal for setting. After this respite, the panel is pressed against the ceiling, leveled and held for some time. Do the same with the following panels.
- The last operation is gluing the skirting boards with a sealant.
If the skirting boards refuse to sit on the base, then one can suspect insufficient surface preparation, a weak level of adhesion in the adhesive composition. In this case, all the elements are dismantled, and the first stage - cleaning the ceiling - is repeated. Now both the lamellas, free of glue, and the ceiling are lubricated. The success of this approach is guaranteed in most cases. In case of force majeure, the adhesive composition is changed to a thicker variety.
It is better to peep in advance how other craftsmen make the ceiling from plastic panels in the kitchen. Then even beginners will not have questions and "dark spots", because learning from their mistakes can be expensive. For example, very informative videos:
The panel ceiling in the kitchen is perhaps the most versatile finishing method. This option is affordable, quite decorative, suitable even for low ceilings. In addition, the material meets all the requirements of the kitchen: it can withstand a sufficiently high temperature, is not afraid of moisture, is easy to clean, and so on.
Ceiling panels for the kitchen: advantages and disadvantages
This kind of facing material is made of polyvinyl chloride stabilized with appropriate inorganic compounds. A prerequisite for such a finish is neutrality and the absence of harmful fumes. PVC, although it does not belong to non-combustible materials, does not give off fumes when burning or melting, and therefore can be used for cladding both the kitchen and other rooms.
In fact, the material has a lot of advantages:
- the ceiling panel in the kitchen can have any appearance. Plastic easily imitates wood, stone, patterned materials, plaster finishes, even mirrors and metal panels. Its decorative possibilities are almost endless;
- PVC products are not afraid of moisture - no steam, no condensation, no hot or cold water;
- the plastic is non-hygroscopic. The panels do not absorb dirt, soot, colorants or grease. It is a truly washable ceiling that does not pose a problem;
- the cladding is very light, which makes it easy to install and repair. Even a beginner can install a plastic ceiling in the kitchen with his own hands;
- PVC panels are easy to cut , which allows them to be used for finishing complex surfaces - multilevel, inclined, with a complex configuration;
- among other things, plastic panels are available to families with the most average budget.
The disadvantages of the product are as follows:
- wear resistance is relatively low - the material is easily scratched;
- alas, plastic is flammable and does not tolerate proximity to heating devices, including halogen lamps;
- the ceiling made of PVC panels in the kitchen must not be cleaned with aggressive detergents or abrasive particles. At the same time, the surface loses color and smoothness.
Siding ceiling in the kitchen: types
Products are produced for both wall and ceiling decoration. The former are thicker, more durable, and, accordingly, heavier. But if the base ceiling can withstand such a load, they can be used for decoration. The special ceiling material is much thinner and more fragile, so it can only be used on the ceiling. The ceiling made of plastic panels in the kitchen in the photo is made using the technique of photo printing.
Most often, PVC products are in the form of lamellas, but this is far from the only option. Plastic ceilings in the kitchen can be made from the following panels:
- slats - narrow type-setting elements with a width of 10 to 50 cm and a length of 2.3 to 3 m. They can imitate lining, aluminum lamellas, any other artificial or natural material with a corresponding structure. Products can form a seamless ceiling and a seam - in the latter case, grooves remain between the typesetting elements, emphasizing the structure. It is better to mount the cladding on the crate;
- square tile - from 30 to 90 cm in size. Usually they are made with a pattern - floral or ornamental. They can be combined with one-color tiles. From the latter, you can lay out a geometric pattern;
- finishing sheets - square or rectangular in shape with a side from 80 to 200 cm. More often imitate stone, but wood, leather, and wallpaper can also be used. You can fix the sheets both on the base surface and on the crate.
A fairly new design option is the application of photo printing on sheathing sheets. In this case, the ceilings in the kitchen made of plastic are made to order.
How to make a plastic ceiling in the kitchen
This activity is quite simple, but it requires a certain amount of patience and accuracy.
- First, choose the type of finish. It should correspond to the kitchen interior and design idea. So, if you intend to visually change the proportions of the room, it is better to use lamellas. And if the ceiling surface is to be a solid image, preference is given to sheet material.
- It is important to correctly calculate the amount of cladding. To do this, measure the area of their ceiling and calculate the required number of panels, taking into account the method of laying - along, across, diagonally, in compliance with a certain order. It is recommended for a complex finishing method to draw up a plan, and then calculate the amount of material.
- Be sure to add 15% to the total , since some of the panels will need to be trimmed.
- The installation method must be selected. The ceiling in the kitchen made of plastic panels can be installed both on the base surface, if it is sufficiently flat, and on the crate. The second method is preferable if lamellas are used, as well as in cases where it is necessary to hide communications, install built-in lamps, etc.
After that, proceed to the actual installation. How to make a ceiling?
- Cleans the base surface. If necessary, remove not only the old finish, but also the plaster.
- If you intend to install a crate, then first mount the wall profile. To do this, measure the same distance from the floor in each corner, and then connect the resulting marks. Thus, the parallelism of the floor and ceiling is achieved. Longitudinal strips are fixed in the wall profile with the required frequency.
- If the lathing is made of wood , as elements of the frame, a wooden beam of the appropriate size is used.
- A plastic one is fixed to the installed metal profile or bar from below - for fastening the panels. The lamellas are cut to length. Plastic expands when heated, therefore, during installation, a tolerance of up to 5 mm is provided.
Finishing the kitchen ceiling with PVC panels is done as follows: a lamella is inserted into the starting profile, then fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate. The next lamella is inserted into the starting profile and pushed into the installed element. As a rule, the last lamella has to be cut to the width.
If the plastic panels are glued to the ceiling, the work procedure is simpler: the ceiling surface is cleaned, greased with glue and the panel is fixed. In this case, only seamless patterns are used.
Ceiling in the kitchen made of plastic panels: care
PVC panels are also convenient because they are easy to clean. Caring for them is minimal:
- periodically, the ceiling is wiped with a damp sponge or rag. This is enough to remove soot, grease and traces of condensation;
- soap solution is used to remove stubborn dirt;
- abrasive materials, metal brushes cannot be used.
Repairing the ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels is easier than ever. If the material was attached to the crate, then you can replace any damaged lamella at any time. If the sheets are stuck, the replacement will take longer, since the material will have to be separated from the ceiling in parts.
Kitchen ceiling made of PVC panels is a simple and convenient solution. The material is very diverse and decorative, which allows you to decorate the kitchen in any style and in any color scheme. In addition, plastic is practical, easy to install and moisture resistant.